Road Trip Yellowstone Read online

  Only have 48 hours? Make the most of your time by visiting some of our favorite spots in the park.

  SEE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS

  Walk along a mile-long boardwalk to see the colorful travertine terraces formed by hot springs rising to the surface and depositing dissolved limestone in dramatic, staircase-like patterns. From these Lower Terraces, you can reach the Upper Terraces via a staircase.

  STROLL MIDWAY AND LOWER GEYSER BASINS

  Head to Midway Geyser Basin and walk along the boardwalk to see one of the world’s largest, deepest hot springs, Grand Prismatic Spring. It’s larger than a football field at 370 feet across and deeper than a ten-story building at 125 feet.

  WATCH OLD FAITHFUL

  Take a seat and watch the world’s most famous geyser. It erupts about twenty times a day. The front desk of the Old Faithful Inn posts eruption times.

  DINE AT OLD FAITHFUL INN

  A trip to Yellowstone would not be complete without seeing the largest log structure in the world, the Old Faithful Inn built from 1903 to 1904. Breakfast and lunch are first-come, first-served, but you need to make dinner reservations in advance. Can’t get dinner reservations? Have a drink and appetizers in the Bear Pit Lounge.

  WAKE UP WITH THE WOLVES

  For your best chance of seeing a wolf, get up before sunrise and head to the Lamar Valley in the park’s northeast corner. Use your binoculars or scope at the roadside pullouts and you may see bears, bison, deer, and osprey.

  EAT AT ROOSEVELT LODGE

  Built in 1920, Roosevelt Lodge, one of the park’s most charming and intimate restaurants, has a wonderful front porch with rocking chairs where you can have a drink and take in park views. Inside, the log building is wonderfully authentic with food for every dietary need.

  CRUISE TOWER ROAD AND HIKE MT. WASHBURN

  Head south from Roosevelt and stop at the 132-foot Tower Fall. Continue to drive up the 8,859-foot Dunraven Pass. At the top, park and hike the 3.1-mile (one way) trail to Mt. Washburn’s 10,243-foot summit.

  VIEW WILDLIFE IN THE HAYDEN VALLEY

  This grassy valley supports huge herds of bison, grizzly bears, elk, coyotes, wolves, moose, and bald eagles. Stop at one of the pullouts, especially at dawn or dusk, to see these iconic Yellowstone animals with binoculars or a scope.

  PACKING LIST

  You are headed to Yellowstone National Park, where you will find half of the world’s geysers and more wildlife than anywhere else in the Lower 48. From high mountain peaks to green valleys and alpine rivers, there are hundreds of places to explore. But how do you pack for Yellowstone? Here are the most essential items.

  BINOCULARS OR A SPOTTING SCOPE

  Don’t miss seeing that grizzly across Hayden Valley or the wolf trotting through the grass in the Lamar Valley. Bring along a good pair of binoculars or a spotting scope to see all the wildlife Yellowstone has to offer. It’s worth talking to your local camping store employee about the different types of binoculars for sale as not all are created equal. You don’t want to end up with an extraordinarily weak pair, nor a pair too heavy to hike with. Photo tip: Put your cell phone camera up to the spotting scope lens to take a close-up shot of the herd of moose in the distance.

  BEAR SPRAY

  The Greater Yellowstone region is home to about 700 grizzlies, so bear spray is a must in Yellowstone if you plan on doing any sort of hiking or walking on trails. The park advises everyone on the trails to carry bear spray and know how to use it in the event you encounter a grizzly. You can purchase bear spray at camping stores (don’t try to bring it on the plane) in the towns near the park, or you can rent it from the kiosk at the Canyon Village Visitor Center. Keep in mind, the best prevention is going to visitor centers to find out what areas to avoid, walking in groups of three or more, keeping at least 100 yards between you and a bear, and making noise as you hike to avoid surprising a bear. (See the sidebar on page 27 for more information.)

  A SUN HAT, SUNGLASSES, AND SUNSCREEN

  You only need to have experienced the sun in the West one time before you realize how strong it really is, especially since Yellowstone sits at an average elevation of 8,000 feet. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, which is preferable over a baseball cap, to cover your entire face. Then, apply sunscreen over all exposed skin, including the back of your neck. Sunglasses will protect your eyes from being burned, and polarized lenses will help you see views more clearly. Don’t forget, you are 8,000 feet closer to the sun than at sea level. Purchase sunglasses straps if you plan to be on the water.

  STURDY HIKING BOOTS

  To make the most out of your trip, pack a pair of supportive, waterproof, and breathable hiking boots. The advantage to boots over athletic shoes is the hard, unyielding sole that will protect your feet as you walk over rocky surfaces. Boots will allow you to navigate wet and dry trails with ease and enable you to explore farther than you otherwise would have.

  A RAIN JACKET

  Who brings a rain jacket to the dry West? Everyone should because in the summer, afternoon rainstorms roll in almost like clockwork. The good news is they pass quickly. The bad news is the temperature drops dramatically when it rains, turning a warm day into one that feels freezing. When it rains and temperatures plummet, you want a jacket that can keep you warm and dry.

  A COUPLE WATER BOTTLES OR A HYDRATION SYSTEM

  The average elevation of Yellowstone National Park is 8,000 feet. Combat the effects of high elevation and sun by drinking water almost constantly. Because the air is dry, your sweat quickly evaporates. Often, you won’t know you are sweating. Drinking water ensures you won’t get dehydrated, which can lead to headaches and more serious conditions like heat cramps and heat stroke. Plan to drink .5–1 liter per hour of hiking. Even when you are not recreating, be sure to keep drinking. If your urine is clear, you are hydrated. Hydration packs allow you to keep sipping even as you are on the move.

  WARM AND COLD CLOTHING LAYERS

  When you are sitting in sweltering heat in Chicago, it may seem totally ridiculous to pack a winter hat and warm layers for your Yellowstone trip. Ignore your inner cynic. At 8,000 feet, park temperatures can fluctuate 30 degrees in 1 day, going from 40 degrees F in the night to 70 degrees F in the day. Be sure to pack light layers for daytime and others that will keep you warm in the evenings, including a winter hat and a down jacket, for when the sun sets and cooler air moves in. You will be surprised at how quickly temperatures drop as the sun sets.

  A STAR CHART

  You’ll find some very dark skies in Yellowstone, which is hundreds of miles from major cities. With a star chart, you’ll be able to identify some of the formations you may never have seen before, especially if you are coming from an urban environment. Or use technology and download the SkyView free app for iPhone or Android. You may be able to see up to 15,000 stars in the Wyoming sky in comparison to 500 in an urban sky. It’s far out!

  STURDY WATER SHOES

  If you plan on river rafting, canoeing, or kayaking, you will want a good pair of water shoes. Flip-flops are not recommended for water activities as they will get stuck in the mud and either break or get swallowed down river. A covered rubber-toed shoe can help you avoid getting bruised toes from river rocks or cuts from stray logs.

  A TABLECLOTH

  It’s the little things that make a big difference. When you stop at the roadside weathered picnic table to eat lunch, pull out your tablecloth to go from down-home to gourmet in a matter of seconds. You’ll also avoid getting hard-to-remove splinters when you lean against the table.

  BUG SPRAY

  Spend more time enjoying the scenery rather than swatting bugs. If you don’t want to use traditional formulas that include strong chemicals, there are plenty of bug sprays available these days that are made from natural ingredients and are safer for use by children.

  DAYPACK

  Make going for a stroll at Mammoth Hot Springs or a longer hike to Fairy Falls easier with a daypack. Place all your (and your family’s) essent
ials like extra layers, extra snacks, a flashlight, binoculars, and simple first-aid kit in it.

  HEADLAMP

  Read at night in your tent comfortably with your headlamp or use it to safely walk to and from evening ranger talks.

  DOWNLOAD SIGHTSEEING APPS

  You’re less likely to miss the highlights of the areas you are driving by if you listen to the GyPSy Guide. The tour app uses your device’s location abilities to play the commentary automatically as you drive, recommending places worth pulling over for and providing background stories.

  To find out when various geysers are estimated to erupt, download the free National Park Service Yellowstone Geysers app from iTunes or Google Play. You do need Wi-Fi or cell phone service, which can be spotty in the park, to access the predictions.

  PLASTIC BAGS

  Plastic bags come in handy to pack out used toilet paper if nature calls while you are hiking. It’s a big no-no to try to bury toilet paper in the backcountry. It has to be packed out.

  WILDLIFE OF YELLOWSTONE

  There’s a lot of wildlife to see in and around Yellowstone if you know where to look for it. When viewing bears and wolves, keep a safe distance of at least 100 yards between you and the animals. With all other wildlife, keep a distance of at least 25 yards.

  BISON

  Roughly 4,600 bison roam in Yellowstone. At the turn of the 20th century, America’s wild bison, which at one time numbered 60 million, had dwindled to about two dozen animals. The bison in Yellowstone today are descendants of those survivors. Bison can weigh up to 2,000 pounds, and although they may seem docile, they are unpredictable animals and have been known to charge at visitors who approach them too closely.

  WHERE TO SEE THEM: In Yellowstone, check out the Lamar and Hayden Valleys. Both are great places to watch bison. Also, look for them near Pelican Valley. In Grand Teton, look for them along the Snake River from Jackson Lake Dam south to Moose.

  BLACK BEAR

  These omnivores can weigh up to 400 pounds and stretch from 2 to 4 feet tall. They can be black, blond, or brown, which can lead visitors to misidentify them as grizzlies. They follow their mostly vegetarian food sources up and down the park. In spring, they feast on shrubs and new shoots in the forest. Throughout summer and fall, they retreat to the cooler alpine zone, chasing berries and trout. Black bears hibernate during winter and mate during the summer. Litters typically consist of two cubs.

  WHERE TO SEE THEM: In Yellowstone, see them in the Lamar and Hayden Valleys. In Grand Teton, look for them in Two Ocean and Emma Mathilde Lakes, Colter Bay, and Teton Park Road.

  ELK

  In summer, Yellowstone houses about 10,000–20,000 elk. The population drops to 5,000 in winter. Many area elk winter in the National Elk Refuge near Jackson. Adult bull elk weigh up to 700 pounds, while adult females may weigh up to 500 pounds. Their rear ends are white and often give them away to passersby. Elk congregate at lower elevations during mating season, also known as “the rut,” from September to October, making fall the best time to spot them.

  WHERE TO SEE THEM: See elk throughout Yellowstone, especially near Mammoth Hot Springs, Lamar Valley, Norris Junction, Gibbon River, and Madison Junction. In Grand Teton, they gather near Teton Park Road, in Willow Flats, Two Ocean and Emma Mathilde Lakes, and along the Snake River from Jackson Lake Dam south to Moose.

  GRIZZLY BEAR

  Grizzlies, also referred to as “brown bears,” have a distinctive hump between their shoulders, a long snout, and short, fuzzy ears that are smaller than those of black bears. Their front claws measure between 2 and 4 inches in length. They can reach 4 feet at the shoulder and can weigh up to 700 pounds. They typically have blonde-tipped fur on their backs and flanks. The Yellowstone region is home to about 700 grizzlies.

  WHERE TO SEE THEM: Yellowstone’s grizzlies often wander through the Lamar and Hayden Valleys, around Yellowstone Lake, Heart Lake, and Pelican Valley. In Grand Teton National Park, look for them in Willow Flats, Two Ocean and Emma Mathilde Lakes, Oxbow Bend, and Cascade and Death Canyons.

  HOW TO AVOID RUNNING INTO A BEAR

  Grizzly bear encounters are rare, but you should always respect these wild and potentially dangerous animals. There’s an average of one bear attack per year in Yellowstone, although in both 2011 and 2015, the annual death total was three. Protect yourself on your visit. Visitors should stay at least 100 yards away from bears.

  Before You Explore

  Check in with a park visitor center to find out if there has been bear activity on the trails you want to hike and to find out if any areas are closed for bear management. Ask park rangers there for tips on how to avoid a bear encounter.

  Purchase or rent bear spray. You can buy it at camping stores or rent it during the summer season at the Yellowstone Canyon Village Visitor Center kiosk. Learn how to use it before you hit the trail.

  On the Trail

  Stay on the trail, hike in groups of three or more, and talk or sing loudly to reduce your risk of surprising a bear. Ninety-one percent of people who were attacked by bears in Yellowstone since 1970 were hiking alone or with one partner, according to Yellowstone officials. Be alert and look for bear activity to avoid surprising a bear.

  Avoid hiking at dawn and dusk and never approach a carcass, as bears may be nearby and ready to defend their food. Never leave a backpack or food unattended as it could attract bears. Always carry bear spray. Keep it accessible on your belt or quick-draw holster.

  In Backcountry Camps

  Store all food and smelly items like deodorant, sunscreen, and toothpaste in an approved bear canister, bear locker, or hung from a food pole whenever you are not using them. Sleep at least 100 yards from where you prepare and store your food. Never bring or store food in your tent. Avoid cooking very smelly meals (fish or meat).

  If You See a Grizzly Bear

  Back away slowly and immediately. Never run. In the rare event that the bear charges, stand your ground. Many charges are bluffs with the bear veering away at the last minute. Deploy your bear spray in a wide cloud, aiming slightly downward when the bear is about 60 feet away.

  Don’t play dead unless the bear knocks you down. In that case, roll on your stomach, put your hands over your neck and lie still.

  MOOSE

  As the largest member of the deer family, their long snout, bulbous nose, and dewlap under the throat sets them apart from Yellowstone and Grand Teton’s other hooved animals. Moose are heavily concentrated in Grand Teton National Park. Look for them in areas full of willows and aquatic vegetation.

  WHERE TO SEE THEM: In Yellowstone, look for the park’s one hundred or so moose in Willow Park between Norris Junction and Mammoth, and also near Yellowstone Lake, Fishing Bridge, West Thumb, and Hayden Valley. In Grand Teton, see them along Oxbow Bend, Blacktail Ponds, Mormon Row, and Antelope Flats Road.

  WOLVES

  As of 2016, about ninety-nine wolves roamed in ten packs inside Yellowstone and around its borders, with fifty-eight in the Grand Teton area and about 450 total wolves in the Greater Yellowstone area. These highly social predators, which mainly hunt elk, deer, and bison, have come a long way since 1995, when a reintroduction program brought fourteen Canadian wolves to the park after decades of hunting had effectively wiped the predator out.

  WHERE TO SEE THEM: In Yellowstone, the most frequently spotted wolf-packs haunt Lamar Valley, Hayden Valley, the Canyon area, and Blacktail Deer Plateau. Dawn and dusk are the best times to look. In Grand Teton, see them in Willow Flats.

  PART 1 NORTH AND NORTHEAST ENTRANCES

  Yellowstone National Park has five entrances. The original entrance is in the north at Gardiner. Fifty-six miles east of Gardiner is another entrance at Cooke City. These two entrances are the least busy of the five, at least as far as people are concerned. (As a matter of fact, some of the best wildlife watching in the park is near these northern entrances.)

  Gardiner and the other communities in Paradise Valley and Cooke City are just fine with their
relative lack of bustle. If these two entrances were busier, Gardiner would not be the quirky town of 875 inhabitants that it is. Cooke City might have to add on to its historic one-room schoolhouse. Livingston’s blue-collar roots would probably succumb to the cowboy cosmopolitanism of Jackson a hundred miles to the south. Real estate prices in Red Lodge, where there’s a ski area with no lines and a 900,000-acre wilderness just a short drive from town, would be triple what they are. If you’re looking to experience authentic Montana in addition to Yellowstone, the north and northeast entrances are where you want to head.

  ROAD TRIP 1 GARDINER

  Gardiner has a population of about 875 people. The elk herd that lives nearby numbers more than 3,000. This town sits right at Yellowstone’s North Entrance, enabling quick access to the park. It’s 100 percent full of character . . . and characters. It’s also the only gateway community from which you can drive a car (versus snowmobile) in the park year-round.

  The town of Gardiner is named after the highly successful fur trapper Johnson Gardner, who was active in the area from the 1820s until the mid-1830s. Around 1835, members of the Arikara agricultural Indian tribe who lived in the plains north and east of what became Yellowstone National Park killed Gardner after he and some companions had killed three of their tribesmen for killing their friend Hugh Glass (the protagonist in the 2015 film The Revenant). In 1870, Gardner the town became Gardiner when the Langford-Washburn-Doan Expedition came through the area. They made detailed maps but didn’t bother double-checking their spellings. The spelling of the Gardner River in Yellowstone was not corrupted, so the Gardner River is just south of the town of Gardiner and both are named after the same man.

  Roosevelt Arch

  The Roosevelt Arch was built in 1903 because the powers that be worried Yellowstone’s main entrance lacked the pomp and circumstance required to welcome visitors to the world’s first national park. It was named after President Teddy Roosevelt, who traveled to Yellowstone for a 2-week vacation and placed the arch’s cornerstone. About this vacation, Roosevelt said, “For the last 18 months I have taken everything as it came, from coal strikes to trolley cars, and I feel I am entitled to a fortnight to myself.” (Since he was in the park in late April, when it was still buried beneath several feet of snow, it’s likely he really did have a fortnight to himself!) Roosevelt was in Gardiner and placed the cornerstone 2 months into construction, in April 1903. He never again visited Gardiner and so never saw the completed arch. The arch took 7 months to build.